Vol 16, Issue 4

Test-Retest Reliability of a 4-Minute All-Out Critical Force Test in Rock Climbers

Authors

Zachary J. McCleanUniversity of Calgary
Keenan MacDougallUniversity of Calgary
Jared R. FletcherMount Royal University
Saied J. AboodardaUniversity of Calgary
Brian R. MacIntoshUniversity of Calgary
International Journal of Exercise Science 16(4): 912-923, 2023.
DOI: 10.70252/DBIC1991

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to assess the test-retest reliability of a 4-minute all-out critical force test in well-trained rock climbers. Thirteen rock climbers (n=4 females) completed a familiarization session and two all-out critical force tests on different days. During each trial, participants completed 24 repetitions of 7s right-handed, maximal effort hangs from a 20mm edge interspersed with 3 s rest. The end-test force (EF; i.e., critical force), impulse above EF (IEF), and peak force achieved durin g the test were analyzed with paired t-tests to determine differences between trials. Intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC), coefficient of variation (CV), and Bland-Altman analysis were performed to quantify the relative and absolute reliability of the measure, respectively. The level of significance for this study was set at p<0.05. There were no significant differences between trials for any of the reported variables (P≥0.455). For EF, IEF, and peak force, ICC was 0.848, 0.820, and 0.938, respectively; and CV was 21.0%, 13.2%, and 5.6%, respectively. Bland-Altman analyses showed a mean relative bias of -2.3%, -2.8%, and -1.3%, with 95% limits of agreement (LoA) of -62.6% to 58.1%, -40.5% to 30.9%, and -17.2% to 14.6% for EF, IEF, and peak force, respectively, however linear regression revealed a significant proportional bias for EF (p = 0.026, R2 = 0.377). The reliability of this protocol was good to excellent for all parameters; however, there was larger intra-individual variability for EF and IEF. This study suggests that when using the 4-min all-out critical force test in rock climbers, coaches and athletes should be aware that there may be a trade-off between the test’s practicality and the precision of its results.

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